神話と日本刀の故郷、出雲へ③「石見銀山と松江城」/Journey in Izumo, hometown of Mythology and Samurai Sword②“Iwami silver mine and Matsue castle”
かつて大ブームを呼んだ石見銀山へ
出雲旅の二日目はまずは朝一番で石見銀山へ。石見銀山は鎌倉時代末期（1,309年）に発見され、1600年前後の最盛期には世界中の銀の1/3を日本が生産しており、そのかなりの部分が石見銀山から産出されていたと言われています。何より記憶に新しいのは、2007年6月に石見銀山が世界遺産に選定された時の全国を挙げてのフィーバーぶり。それまでにも日本国内に世界遺産は存在したとはいえ、ツーリズムに直結した世界遺産ブームはあの時に始まったと言っても過言ではないと思います。当時は銀山を目指す人々が何㎞も列を成し、その熱狂を伴なった人気爆発がTVをにぎわせました。これまで世界中で洞穴を回ってきた“穴マニア”の自分にとってもぜひ訪れたい場所でしたが、こんな人混みの中に出かける勇気はなく訪れる機会のないまま時間が過ぎました。さすがにあれから10年経って混雑も収まっただろうからこの機会に訪ねてみようと思い立ちました。そうしたら想像以上のことが起こっていました・・・。
Iwami Silver Mine invited big boom 10 years ago
On the 2nd day we headed for Iwami silver mine early morning. Iwami silver mine was discovered in AD1309, end period of Kamakura era. It reached the peak of the production around 1600, beginning of Edo Shogunate, and in that period Japan had produced 1/3 of silver worldwide. Main engine was of course Iwami silver mine. It was nominated as World Heritage in 2007 and invited enthusiastic nationwide tourism boom. It was truly the beginning of World heritage fever in Japan. At that time tourists made a long que of many Km to visit the mine and explosion of the boom was reported by TV many times. I am a “hole mania” and visited many caves and mines worldwide. However I had hesitated to visit Iwami as I was afraid of such a terrible crowds. Now it is already 10 years after the uproar, maybe it’s good time to visit there. Then something beyond imagination happened……
(English text continue to the latter half of the page)
実際の石見銀山の中心スポットから1㎞ほど離れたところにある「世界遺産センター」。ほぼ9時の開館直後に到着。地元民以外の観光客はこちらに車を停めるルールだと聞いていたのですが、いくら雨降りの平日とは言え車が1台も無い！ひょっとしたら今日は閉館なのかと思ったほど。中で係の人に聞くと、銀山の手前の駐車場も空いていれば観光客も停めていいとのこと。まずはそちらに向かうことに。
こちらが代官所跡の近くに位置する大森観光センター。ここから2.5㎞少し歩けば公開されている坑道「龍源寺間歩（りゅうげんじまぶ）」に至ります。それにしても駐車中の車は自分たちのほかに僅か4台（恐らく従業員のもの）、道を歩いていても自分たち以外の観光客は数名しか見当たらず、いくら雨降りの月曜日とは言えここまで観光客がいないとはまったくの想定外。普段はもう少し人出があるのでしょうか。
江戸時代の趣きを残したこうした街並みを40分ほど歩いて坑道に向かいます。雨が降っていなければレンタルの電動自転車を借りるところ。環境保護のために車の乗り入れを制限するのはよくわかるのですが、老人や体の不自由な観光客のためにシャトルの電動自動車を走らせるなどの工夫はできないものか。
早咲きの桜は実に見事！
道の脇にはそこら中に大小様々な坑道跡が覗いています。
龍源寺間歩に到着。坑道跡は数百件規模で残っていますが、公開されているのはこのひとつだけ。シーズンを区切って大久保間歩も要予約でツアーが組まれている模様。
龍源寺間歩に入って10mくらいのところで入り口を振り返ってみました。穴の高さは180㎝くらいか、所によっては気を付けないと頭をぶつけます。
坑道の脇に穿たれた排水坑。しかし坑道を歩く以外で目につくのはこれと説明書きのパネルくらいで、この龍源寺間歩は実際には“ただの穴”・・・。それも歩いて10分足らずで外に出てしまう短さ。これまでに内外で様々な鉱山跡を見てきましたが、これはつまらない。今まで見てきた鉱山跡で記憶に残るところはいずれも坑道の脇に鉱夫の人形や当時の工具、施設などを再現したりして、採掘当時の様子が想像できるような工夫が様々に成されていました。こうした世界遺産を訪れる観光客はいずれもその最盛期にどのような姿だったのかを思い浮かべ、憧れを以てやってくる。そうした訪問客に対してさらに想像力を掻き立てて興奮を誘ってくれるような仕掛けも時として大事なのではないか。また成功している観光地では必ず多く見かけるインバウンド観光客の姿もほとんど見ることはありませんでした。
正直に言って現在の石見銀山は“死につつある”スポットではないかと感じました。もちろん現地の方の生活もあるので必ずしも観光地に多くの訪問客を連れてくることが正しいこととは言い切れません。しかし石見銀山は徳川幕府誕生前後を挟んで世界に流通する銀のかなりの部分を算出して、まさに世界経済、商品流通の一翼を担っていたこの銀山が10年後には三流の観光地になってしまうことはいかにももったいない気持ちです。
国宝「松江城」：侍の息吹を感じる空間
日本各地には明治以前に建造された城が数多くありますが、その中で戦災に遭わずに江戸時代の天守閣構造が残っているのは全国で5つしかなく、松江城はそのひとつで国宝にも指定されています。
山門からお城を見上げます。
城の内部に井戸があります。籠城戦への備えか。
城の構造は江戸時代初期に建造されたもの。現代のような鉄筋コンクリート造りではなく、木造建築になると写真のようにやたらに太い柱が多くなります。構造上の問題で窓も小さく、照明がなければ中は昼間でもかなり暗い（右の写真）。
もうひとつの特徴はとにかく階段が急！これは活用できる床面積の最大化のためだと思いますが、城の厨房から料理の膳を抱えて各階に運ぶのはかなり大変そうです。
天守閣まで登ると四方が開けてかなり明るくなります。
天守閣から宍道湖方面を見下ろしてみました。天気が悪いのが残念。
やはり日本の城は居住性ではなく、戦のために建てられたということがよくわかりました。侍の時代から変わりない構造の松江城を訪ねたことで、当時の侍たちの息遣いが聞こえてきたような感覚を覚えました。
Iwami Silver Mine invited big boom 10 years ago
On the 2nd day we headed for Iwami silver mine early morning. Iwami silver mine was discovered in AD1309, end period of Kamakura era. It reached the peak of the production around 1600, beginning of Edo Shogunate, and in that period Japan had produced 1/3 of silver worldwide. Main engine was of course Iwami silver mine. It was nominated as World Heritage in 2007 and invited enthusiastic nationwide tourism boom. It was truly the beginning of World heritage fever in Japan. At that time tourists made a long que of many Km to visit the mine and explosion of the boom was reported by TV many times. I am a “hole mania” and visited many caves and mines worldwide. However I had hesitated to visit Iwami as I was afraid of such a terrible crowds. Now it is already 10 years after the uproar, maybe it’s good time to visit there. Then something beyond imagination happened……
This is World Heritage Center located 1km from the central spot. I had heard it is a rule to park cars here for tourists from outside the town and take shuttle bus to the center. I arrived there around opening time at 9:00. But I couldn’t find any other cars in huge parking! Is it closed today? No, it was opened but I could have parked my car in central parking if spaces are available. So I headed there.
This is the Omori tourist center located central in the town. The entrance of the mine is 2.5km away from here. I saw only 4 other cars there (maybe employees’ one). Although it was rainy Monday morning, it was truly beyond my imagination to see such few tourists. Are there more in other ordinary days?
Around 40 minute walk takes you to “Ryugenji-mabu”, the only mine tunnel open to public. An atmosphere of Edo time remains along the street. I could rent electric powered bicycle if it is fine day. Although I understand they needed to bang car traffic to protect environment, other ideas are possible like shuttle EV for seniors and handicapped.
Cherry blossoms were just awesome!
You see a lot of mine tunnels along the street.
I reached the Ryugenji-mabu. Although more than 400 mine tunnels remain, only this tunnel is open to public. Another tunnel, Okubo-mabu tour is available upon booking only in weekend except winter season.
Around 10m from the entrance. The hole is around 180cm high. You have to watch out.
This is water drain tunnel beside the way. I could see only this and explanation panels except walking in the tunnel. This is just a “hole”…. Moreover it was so short as I went out from the tunnel in 10 minutes. I have to say this is just prosaic. I have seen many caves and mines in Japan and abroad. And most of them were full of ideas to attract visitors like display of old mine workers and ancient mine tools. Visitors to such a World Heritage mine are attracted by visions of old times and want to look back how it looked like at their peak times. And I saw very few inbound tourists which are seen very often at successful tourism places.
To be very frank, Iwami silver mine looked like “dying spot”. Off course it is not always good to gather many tourists when you think about lives of local people. However Iwami silver mine had played a significant role in global economy and distribution in 17th century. I don’t want to see this mine becomes third rated tourism place in next 10 years.
National Treasure “Matsue Castle”：Feel breathing air of Samurais
Samurai lords in Japan had built many castles nationwide in these days. However most of them have been destroyed during World War by bombing and only 5 of them remain as the original structures. Matsue Castle is one of them and nominated as National Treasure.
I looked up the castle from the main gate.
There is a well in the building. It might be the provision for besieged warfare.
The basic castle structure was made in early time of Edo period. It is not off course reinforced concrete but purely wood constructed. Wood construction made window space very small and needed many stout wood pillars. So inside is quite dark without lightings even in daytime like the photo on the right.
Another characteristic is stairs are so steep! I guess this was due to the maximization of floor spaces. But it must have been so hard to carry meal dishes to each floor from the kitchen.
This is the top castle tower. This tower is open to each direction and very bright.
I looked down from the tower to Shinjiko lake. It is very shame that it was cloudy.
I understand Japanese castles were built for warfare, not for habitability. I stayed in original structure of the castle and I felt like that I shared the same breathing air with Samurais.